The World Runs on Onions
There are many great discoveries in human history. Fire. The wheel. The internal combustion engine. And then there is the moment someone put an onion in a pan and realised that food could smell considerably better if you stopped being impatient. This, essentially, is the soffritto. In Italy, it is usually a simple combination of onion, carrot and celery, gently cooked in olive oil until the kitchen begins to smell like something worth eating. It is the beginning of ragù. The beginning of sauces. The beginning of stews. The beginning of an enormous number of meals that would otherwise be considerably less interesting. But here's the thing. It isn't just Italian. Almost every serious food culture on Earth has looked at a pan, some fat, and a handful of aromatic vegetables and thought "Right. Let's make this taste better." The ingredients change. The fat changes. The cooking time changes. But the idea remains remarkably similar. And frankly, this is one of the great...